Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, and Holbox
Most Americans have never heard the words Quintana Roo but they certainly know of its most famous places – Cancun, Tulum, Cozumel……the list of attractions is endless. From swimming with whale sharks near Holbox or Isla Mujeres to partying the night away at Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo seems to fill in all of the requirements of a great tourism destination.
So a few weeks ago (and after wayyyyyy too long sitting in the same city and a rather large amount of wine at dinner), I jumped at the opportunity to do a little road trip from Merida, Yucatan (where I am currently living) to Isla Mujeres – one of the starting points for whale shark tours and a warm, welcoming little island just a short ferry ride from Cancun with a friend who was visiting Mexico.
The drive from Merida to Cancun took about 4 hours on a well-maintained highway (beware – tolls are REALLY expensive – unless you have 3+ people or really need a car, it is probably better value to just take the ADO bus). There isn’t much to see on the drive besides never ending highway so it is the perfect time to take a nap 🙂
The car ferry from Cancun to Isla Mujeres took about an hour (the passenger ferry is much faster) and we soon found ourselves wandering through the main town of Isla Mujeres. With narrow streets and a plethora of bars and restaurants, Isla Mujeres provides many options for travelers but is not overwhelming like Playa del Carmen can be.
During COVID, things were very quiet which made the shop and restaurant owners desperate for business but a polite “No gracias” was enough to make them leave us alone. We stayed in an Airbnb in a residential part of the island where we could catch a glimpse of what island life was like for the people there and as always in Mexico, the people were welcoming and friendly.
The next morning, we headed to Punta Sur (South Point) of the island where there is a beautiful walkway constructed giving amazing views of the ocean and Cancun off in the distance. There are iguanas everywhere and even some ancient Mayan ruins. There is also a reasonably priced restaurant with outdoor seating which offered incredible views and was the perfect place to sit and have a few beers.
We then made our way to North Beach where we were able to swim from the beachfront restaurants although technically the public beach was “closed” due to COVID, The price of some French fries and beers was definitely worth the ability to cool down in the inviting blue waters.
The next day, we got up bright and early for a day trip to swim with whale sharks. After an incredibly rough, stomach-churning hour and forty-minute boat ride, we finally reached their feeding ground. It was my second time swimming with them and no less magnificent than the time before.
These gentle giants feed on plankton and your biggest concern needs to be getting whacked by their tails (or squashed between them as one poor tourist in the Philippines discovered). Whale sharks are only found in a few places around the world and to see them is really something extraordinary.
At $125 per trip (which really only includes two very quick 5 minute swims), it is a big financial commitment but incredibly worth it. Thankfully, the ride back was much calmer and by the time we reached Isla Mujeres, my stomach had finally settled.
The next day, we crossed back over to Cancun and then made our way to Playa del Carmen, the jumping off point for trips to Cozumel. We spent a relaxing evening drinking beers at an upscale beach bar and had an early night (by Playa del Carmen standards).
The next morning, while my co-travelers took the car ferry a little bit outside of town, I had to take a later passenger ferry which is located smack dab in the middle of the touristy part of town.
A stroll through the relatively empty streets full of restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops was a bit of a reminder of how badly tourism had been hit by covid. Desperate business owners tried to entice me into their shops and bars with promises of free tequila and even a Mexican boyfriend 🙂
The ferry ride to Cozumel took about 30 minutes and cost roughly $10. The ferry docks right in the heart of town and is met by dozens of touts selling snorkeling tours and dive trips. We spent the day driving around the island and visited the delightfully tacky “Coconuts” bar.
Perched high up on a cliff overlooking stunning blue waters, you would guess that Coconuts would be a classy establishment with trendy furniture but instead, it is the ultimate dive bar. Hideously strong drinks, tacky signs, and bras hanging on the walls are combined with secluded pathways, overzealous parrots who scream for attention and friendly dogs made this one of my favorite bars in the world. If you are “lucky” the staff will even give you the opportunity to show your coconuts in exchange for a free shot of tequila.
The next day we went on one of the most disappointing snorkeling tours considering that Cozumel is supposed to have some of the best snorkeling in the world. Staff members were feeding the fish which was great for photo opportunities but not so great if you wanted to really experience aquatic life in their natural habitat.
“El Cielo” is known for having huge, brightly colored starfish but we were only able to see a few. The only saving grace was the seemingly unlimited beer supply that we had access to at the last stop – a stunningly beautiful beach with crystal clear water. The party vibe kind of destroyed the moment but did help end the day on a happier note.
The next day, I decided to branch out on my own and made my way back to Playa del Carmen from where I took a collectivo to Chiquila, a tiny town with a handful of restaurants and bars and the starting off point for ferries to Holbox. I had no idea what to expect from this tiny Caribbean Island but I knew that it was the most famous location to see whale sharks. (I later found out that the trips from Holbox and Isla Mujeres actually go to the exact same place).
The only town of Holbox is an eccentric little place with dirt/sand/mud streets and is full of golf carts zooming up and down the streets (no cars are allowed). I was tickled to see that even the taxis were golf carts. I was the only guest in my hostel and one of the only foreigners I saw while walking up and down the streets and strolling along the long stretch of beach. WARNING: On my first evening there, cell phone service and wifi completely stopped. No one on the island had service even when I left at 5 pm the next day).
The next morning, I was unable to teach online because of the lack of cellular service and decided on a whim to do another whale shark tour. I am so incredibly happy that I did. After a gentle(ish) two hour long boat ride, we were back at the same spot that I had been at a week earlier. However this time, the water was calm and the ocean was full not only of whale sharks but also hundreds of manta rays. It was such an amazing experience.
While swimming alongside a whale shark, my guide quickly told me to look around. Manta rays were surrounding us in every direction. It was so incredibly beautiful that it literally took my breath away.
The trip back to Holbox was made even better by a stop at an incredible beach for freshly made guacamole and another quick stop to see flamingos. By the time we got back to the ferry pier, I was elated and exhausted. With cellular service still down and the threat of missing another day of work, I decided to head back to Playa del Carmen as soon as possible.
I spent a pretty lonely night as the ONLY person in a large hostel/hotel complex. The next morning I spent a leisurely day bar hopping and enjoying feeling like life was back to normal. From playing connect four in a bikini bar to swaying on swinging seats, I was ecstatic to have time on my own to enjoy a life of leisurely beer drinking. I met up with a friend later that evening who was also passing through Playa and had a good night’s sleep before having to say goodbye to Quintana Roo the next morning.
