African safaris are often considered a once in a lifetime experience. The chance to see lions, elephants, and rhinos in their natural habitat is truly awe-inspiring. Thankfully, it DOESN’T have to be a once in a lifetime trip.
I started my research by googling budget safaris in Masai Mara. Well-researched and informative blog posts popped up (I highly recommend using Against the Compass’ excellent article as a guide.) After reading through many blogs, I decided to stay at Mara Explorer’s Backpackers mainly because they offered safaris for only $60 (sadly, you still need to cough up the $80 entry fee to the park) and figured that it was somewhat likely that there would be other backpackers staying there. Mara Explorers sells through Hostelworld or you can book direct. I personally messaged them on Facebook as I had a few questions about transport over the Christmas holidays. They responded within 24 hours, answered my endless list of questions and booked me a room for 3 nights.
After securing accommodation, it was now time to figure out transportation to the camp. Mara Explorers website gives very detailed information on how to get there using public transportation and also offer a pick-up in Nairobi for $150 for up to 3 people. You can find more on this here. As a solo traveller, this was out of my price range so I decided to opt for public transport. I dutifully headed to the bus stage in Nairobi around 8 am on my morning of departure and found the correct matatu stand in Nairobi CBD (It is surprisingly hard to find as there are about a zillion buses and vans coming and going. Just ask someone and they will help you find the right spot.)
I boarded a matatu (aka mini-van), paid my $5 for my ticket and waited for it to load up. After about 25 minutes, we were on the way. Legroom is miniscule and after 3 hours, I felt like my knees were going to explode. Luckily, we reached our destination (Narok) and I was able to stretch for a bit. Following Mara Explorer’s instructions, I made my way to the right departure point for trips into the Masai Mara. One driver found me and offered me a deal that I couldn’t refuse. $35 to the camp and we would leave immediately. The normal cost is around $7 and although I know that it was a wimpy thing to do, I didn’t want to wait for another minivan to load up and I certainly didn’t want to be squashed for another few hours. (I later heard from other travellers that the shared taxi from Narok to the camp was absolute hell.)
Two hours later, my lovely driver dropped me off at my camp. Total cost of transport to get from Nairobi to the Masai Mara ended up being $40.
I arrived at the camp and was positively delighted to find not one, not two but seven friendly dogs waiting to say hello. For those of you that know me personally, this is a dream come true. Accommodation in a tent including a comfy bed and full-board came to about $50 per night. The facilities are basic. Toilets are rustic to say the least and the showers are open air (don’t worry, there is a barricade so all of your private bits are covered). However, the grounds are well-kept with cute little pathways that made me feel like I was at summer camp. I asked about going on a safari the next day and was told that I needed to wait until the evening to see if anyone else was going. I spent the day drinking beer, reading and simply enjoying the peace and quiet (and the endless supply of friendly dogs to pet!).
As it turned out, there was no one else going on a “shared” safari the next day so I had to wait until the following day. I spent the day lounging around the campgrounds, catching up on sleep and enjoying nature.
Finally, on my 3rd day at the camp, I was able to join a shared safari. The cost for the spot in the safari jeep was $60 per person and the camp entry fee is $80 so the total cost of the 12-hour safari day trip came to $140).
The safari itself was incredible. We saw large herds of elephants, zebras, giraffes, wildebeests, cheetahs, lions, gazelles, hippos, crocodiles, and lots and lots of birds. This “budget” safari was the same quality of other safari trips that I have been on in Tanzania. The jeep was comfortable and spacious with the standard “pop-up” roof and our guide was professional and could spot animals even at incredible distances. Lunch was not included but since I had opted for full-board at the camp, they had packed me a humongous lunch.
The next morning, I made my way back to Nairobi. Rather than renting a private taxi, I shared with two other tourists that were heading in the same direction. The total cost was $10 each to Narok and from there, I paid $4 for a matatu back to Nairobi. Total transportation costs for the trip back was $14.
Price Breakdown:
Transportation from Nairobi to Masai Mara – $54 return (partially private)
Accommodation in a private tent – $20 per night x 3
Food expenses – $30 per day X 3
Safari jeep – $60
Masai Mara entry fee – $80
Total Costs: $344
While this cost may appear to be very high to spend one day in the Masai Mara, However, when comparing it to packaged “budget safaris”, it is great value especially for a solo traveller. My average accommodation expense throughout my trip was around $25 per night and meals cost roughly $5-10 each. Considering this, the price that I paid for full-board was comparable to the other places that I visited in Kenya.
For people travelling on a shoestring, there are also ways that you can cut corners by buying your own groceries or carrying your own tent. I also could have opted for the shared taxi to the camp. This could have shaved off at least $100 from the total expense. However, I was taking a much needed vacation from the daily grind of life in India and wanted to enjoy myself as much as possible.
In summary, if you are willing to handle the discomfort of public transport and stay in budget properties, a trip into the Masai Mara is possible!
